Sunday, 22 April 2012

tie and dye (bandini)


                                       Bandini fabric drying in the sun.



                                         
                                  Janis joplin in a tie and dye outfit at woodstock.




                                       
                                          A bandini saree.



In 1967, Michael McClure led the crowd chanting “OM” at the San Francisco’s Golden Gate and started off the “hippie” movement. A movement that pursued the realization of individuality based on the fundamental ethos of being in harmony with nature. A time when power had become all pervasive and there was no ideology left, the youth decided to get back to the core value system that humanity stands for-peace, love and harmony. Never was the Indian connection so strong, hippies grew their hair long, wore psychedelic colorful clothes and conformed to eastern philosophy. Artistic experimentation especially in music was huge but perhaps the most prominent remnant of that generation is their Organically ‘tie and dyed’ colorful clothes.

Now, in western India women have been using organic methods to make their clothes colorful since ancient times. Bandini or bandhej is an art of 'tie and dye’ practiced mainly in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. By using simple techniques of dyeing fabrics like cotton and muslin that are tied tightly with a thread, various patterns like Lehriya, Mothda, Ekdali and Shikari are created. Each village has its own unique pattern of dots and stripes made in pink, green, yellow, red by their women in the backyards of their homes.

As I mentioned in my previous blog a visit to Gujarat got me the opportunity to witness women living in a village near Rajkot make bandini fabric. Pools of colored water had fabric soaked in it. Vegetable dyes were being used to keep the process earthy and organic. Unlike the West where tie and dye was used to uphold an ideology on what life ought to be (a gentle nondoctrinaire ideology of peace, love and personal freedom), here in this village that ideology was a way of life. Human beings living peacefully in harmony with nature, sustaining themselves with an ancient art form that enabled their women financial and personal freedom. As I stood there, I remembered college days where I would wear psychedelic tees and flaunt an ideology that I didn’t truly grasp till now. Being a hippie didn’t just mean a hedonistic lifestyle, it was about free expression and essentially a striving for realization of one’s relationship to life and other people. These rural women around me had no idea about the profound impression their simple bandini had made in my mind. They lived a life in communal harmony where basic food clothing and shelter mattered and had no complications of modern life. Promoting their work would give me a sense a pride since I would be adding a tie and dye art form made in India to Kriya Kalash thus allowing me to be steeped in my roots but branching it out all over the place…


If you would like bandini (tie and dye) fabric from India, kindly contact us on kriyakalash@gmail.com

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