Sunday, 12 February 2012

Reflections on Meitei's fading art





                                                Manipuri Dance (Pung Cholom)



As an army officer’s daughter, I got to travel a lot. It wasn’t  a touristy way of seeing places cause most of the time I was riding in heavily armored vehicles and had an entourage of security personnel following me as I explored aptly termed ‘disturbed states’. Last year, I chanced upon an opportunity to travel to Manipur along with my father and I jumped at it.  My first impression of Manipur as I got out of the airport was how bad the roads were. Security was tight due to constant threat by militant groups and there were road blocks after every two minutes. Years of political unrest and military rule had not washed away the beauty of the landscape. The place was almost virginal, untouched by city life but it would have been serenely beautiful had it not been for constant political strife in Manipur.  Imphal, the city capital seemed like a battleground captured with all the security that one could see on the roads. As I peered out of the car to look at a woman police officer directing traffic all I could do was sigh.

That evening however, things changed for the better. As I sat among “lady wives” listening to conversations of how exorbitant food prices were in Manipur and how people were struggling to purchase basic amenities, a painting on the wall caught my attention. It depicted a strong white turbaned man holding onto the reins of a stallion ridden by a beautiful princess. I wanted to know more and walked over to Colonel Rajbir Singh, who was busy enjoying scotch and smoking his cigar in a corner. The colonel was delighted to answer  my questions and thus the night proceeded with him narrating Meitei myths and legends, among them the famous tragic  love story of ‘khamba and thoibi’ (characters in the painting). Manipur then transformed into a land of brave warriors battling elephant and tigers and beautiful princesses sacrificing  all for love.

(Now, the Meitei (s) history can be traced back to the Stone Age, from being nature worshippers, they later converted to Hinduism. The Meitei Hindus arguably belong to the Kshatriyas (the warrior clan) and consider themselves to be descendents of Prince Arjuna (from Mahabharata-the great Indian epic). Being devotees of Lord Krishna they sport large Chandan (sandalwood) tilaks from their nose to foreheads. The men are excellent horsemen and women gifted weavers, making the finest embroidered cotton fabrics. Most of their art reflects religious and mythical motifs and with such rich history and culture, Manipuris have mastered all forms of art whether its dance, paintings, artifacts or the martial arts)

My Manipuri sojourn did not end with an evening listening to Colonel Singh’s narration. Army life has its privileges even in most hostile environment, and my need to learn more about Meitei art was fulfilled with opportunities to visit museums and galleries there. From watching khamba-thoibi , pung cholom, Ras Lila dance forms to visiting handicraft cottages, I did it all. What I realized through the course of my visit was that although the government was doing its bit to promote these artists still a lot is left to be done.

 A trip to Moirang, another city in Manipur, exposed me to artists specializing in wood work. Due to the political climate, there were no tourists visiting this old cultural village. Most of these craftsmen were abandoning art to accommodate occupations that would bring in very little money for food and clean water. Samples of woodworks in Burmese teak were collected from various houses and I was told that I could choose and order the pieces I like. I was saddened by the state of affairs and decided then that something had to be done to keep this art form alive and thriving. Artists needed to get back to their craft and more people needed to know about Meitei art and culture.

(An example of Manipur Woodwork can be seen on of our previous blog posts. Here is the link : http://kriyakalash.blogspot.in/2012/01/manipuri-woodwork.html)

Fast forwarding to a year later, back in Kolkata, a friend and I decided to do our bit in reviving and promoting artisans and their artifacts. Manipur and its Meitei art form is a priority for us. Keeping our hopes and dreams alive we are pushing forward this cause inspired by words of Manipuri poet and social activist Irom Sharmila...

“I’ll spread the fragrance of peace
From kanglei, my birthplace
In the ages to come
It will spread all over the world.”

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